I remember taking my Mum to the bar at Kettner’s a good few years back, we drank rose champagne and it all felt quite glamorous. There were no signs it was owned by Pizza Express although we went for just drinks as the food, we were told, was ‘meh’.

It has since closed and been tarted up good and proper in the way that only Soho House find it possible to do. It’s stunning. And a hotel now too. I long for a night in this suite let me tell you.

Our visit is for breakfast in the elegant dining room which has a separate bar with a piano for the evenings. It’s all aged-mirrors, marble topped tables and servers in white jackets. At dinner it’s dark and sexy, at breakfast it’s bright and airy.

There’s a section of the menu titled ‘Eggs, caviar & truffle’ and from it the lobster royale (£25) is a lovely thing to eat. There’s crisp, buttery English muffin topped with plentiful meaty lobster topped with hollandaise sauce. Table side our server crowns it with a spoonful of Exmoor Caviar. Probably the poshest thing I’ve ever eaten for breakfast.

It’s not overly massive so I’d suggest a side of sausage (£4) – a must order at any breakfast in my opinion. Here, you get 3 fat, juicy bangers with a nice char on the outside and a moist centre.

Fried eggs on sourdough (£25) are actually atop brioche which works just as well at soaking up the oily egg juices. These are topped at the table with Wiltshire truffle in a generous fashion. This is simple but indulgent food at its finest.

A very decent flat white and a freshly squeezed carrot juice later and we’re off on our merry way. This is certainly one swanky place to have your breakfast.

Would we go back? Yes

Kettnerstownhouse.com
We dined as guests of the restaurant

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