At Majordomo, Jonathan Gold is unsure whether to praise chef David Chang — or bury him

That fuming, blackened haunch of meat you see on half the tables at the new Majordomo — that’s the whole plate short rib, a massive cut rubbed with spices, slapped into a smoker for the better part of a day, carved into elegant slices tableside, and served with enough fermented Korean sauces, herbs…