River North barstaurant Good Measure marks the return of talented chef Matt Troost

But the short menu offers just a glimpse of the chef’s unique talents—for now. But I want trofie!,” I pouted and figuratively stamped the floor when I saw there was no pasta on the menu at Good Measure, a tight new River North barstaurant from Sophie de Oliveira, a sibling in a Chicago cocktail family dynasty that includes her brother Daniel, spirits-brand manager about town, and sister Jacyara (El Che). Along with her is chef Matt Troost, who’s mounting a comeback after stepping away a year and a half ago from West Town pasteria the Charlatan, which closed three months after his departure.…