Carnitas La Esquinita hides in plain sight

But it’s a serious contender in the little-meats game. I have a longtime friend of a certain fleshy girth who, one Saturday morning, stood outside the window of Pilsen’s great Carnitas Don Pedro, in front of its famous mountain of steaming, glistening porky goodness, and thoughtfully observed, “This is what I look like when I get out of the shower.” The sustaining power of those hot, lard-simmered chunks of pork, slabs of skin, and ribbons of offal—especially exceptional on weekends, when the line goes out the door and turnover is high—is such that I can usually block this horrifying image when I’m confronted by them.…