There’s crocodile and hog stomach, but Jonathan Gold is all about the crusty rice at Nature Pagoda

At Nature Pagoda, the crucial moment of your meal is when the super-heated clay pot hits your table, a small bowl of dark sauce balanced on its dome-shaped lid. A server hands you the sauce. A server removes the lid. You dribble the liquid down the sides of the pot, where it thickens and seethes…