Uptown’s In-On Thai excels behind a dark dining room

Its second incarnation abides with extraordinary carryout. One of my last great group restaurant meals was in February. All the essential elements for a swell time were present: a long, loaded table occupied by interesting, (often) hilarious people; a nearly empty dining room that afforded us the company of the owners, who treated us like their own; an array of some 13 astonishing dishes, paired with about half as many BYO wines (the likes of which I’ll probably never taste again).…